Church of Saint Alexander in Zebedee

The church of Sant’Alessandro in Zebedia, located in the center of Milan, is a Baroque gem that tells centuries of history and devotion. The church, dedicated to Saint Alessandro, a Roman soldier and Christian martyr, was built by the Barnabite fathers starting in 1601 and completed in 1658. Its construction was made possible thanks to the donation of an area by Milanese nobles and the commitment of the Barnabites, a religious order founded by Saint Antonio Maria Zaccaria, particularly influential in Milan during the Counter-Reformation period. The architecture of the church is a magnificent example of Lombard Baroque, characterized by a Greek cross plan with a large central dome. The facade, imposing and richly decorated, is the work of Francesco Maria Richini, one of the most important architects of the time. Richini, who was also the author of numerous other Milanese buildings, managed to create a facade that combines classical and Baroque elements, with a series of columns and pilasters that give a sense of grandeur and movement. Inside, Sant’Alessandro in Zebedia offers an extraordinary visual experience, with decoration embracing frescoes, stuccoes, and valuable works of art. The dome, frescoed by Carlo Francesco Nuvolone, represents the Assumption of the Virgin, a work that stands out for its brightness and the dynamism of the figures. The frescoes in the nave, created by Giovan Battista Crespi, known as il Cerano, and his collaborators, illustrate scenes from the life of Saint Alessandro, highlighting the martyrdom of the saint with dramatic realism and extraordinary emotional intensity. The side chapels are decorated with polychrome marble altars and paintings by prominent artists of the Lombard Baroque. Among these, the chapel of San Carlo Borromeo stands out, with an altar designed by Richini and a painting of the saint by Giulio Cesare Procaccini. The chapel of the Madonna Addolorata instead houses a moving sculpture of the Virgin, a work of great sensitivity that attracts many faithful. An interesting feature of the church is the presence of the crypt, where the relics of Saint Alessandro are kept. This crypt, simple but suggestive, is a place of prayer and meditation that attracts many visitors seeking a moment of reflection. Devotion to Saint Alessandro is also evidenced by the numerous ex-votos in the church, offered by the faithful as a sign of gratitude for graces received. Sant’Alessandro in Zebedia also has a rich musical history, being an important center for sacred music in Milan. The church housed one of the city’s best music schools, directed by the Barnabite fathers, who trained numerous talented composers and musicians. This connection with music continues to this day, with concerts and musical events regularly held, making the church a meeting place between art and spirituality. Over the centuries, Sant’Alessandro in Zebedia has undergone various modifications and restorations. Among these, the 19th-century restoration that brought to light numerous architectural and decorative details, and the more recent 20th-century restoration, which allowed to consolidate the structure and further enhance the frescoes and works of art. These interventions have ensured that the church can continue to be a place of worship and beauty for future generations. An interesting anecdote concerns the church’s organ, built in 1838 by the famous organ builder Giuseppe II Serassi. This instrument, known for its power and purity of sound, has been used on numerous special occasions and continues to be one of the most appreciated historical organs in Milan. The organ has a fascinating history and has seen some of the greatest Italian organists play, contributing to making Sant’Alessandro a reference point for sacred music.