Church of Saint Martin of Tours

The Church of San Martín de Tours, located in the heart of Madrid on Calle del Desengaño, is a magnificent example of 17th-century Baroque architecture. Originally founded in the 12th century as a Benedictine monastery in Plaza de las Descalzas, the church was demolished during the reign of Joseph Bonaparte to make way for urban development. In 1836, the name and tradition of the parish were transferred to the current building, which was previously the Convent of Portacoeli of the Clérigos Regulares Menores. The current building follows the canons of 17th-century Madrid architecture, with a Latin cross plan, short transept arms, side chapels, and a deep presbytery. The crossing is topped by a blind dome with an external chapitel, supported by pendentives, while the main nave features a barrel vault with lunettes. The authorship of the building is uncertain, although it is attributed to José de Valdemoro, José de Churriguera, or Pedro de Ribera. The main facade, with its strong monumental character, is a typical example of Baroque facade with massive use of bricks and sober decorations contrasting with the richly decorated entrance. The church houses several significant artistic elements. The main altar features a neo-Renaissance altarpiece, decorated with a relief depicting Saint Martin of Tours and the beggar, created by Mariano Bellver. This relief is one of the central elements of the church, portraying the saint in one of his most famous acts of charity: dividing his cloak with a beggar. The side chapels host images and altarpieces, mostly of modern craftsmanship, continuing to tell the sacred story and devotions associated with the church. The church facade faces Calle del Desengaño and has a two-body structure, crowned by a triangular pediment and prismatic towers. The main entrance is adorned with a sculptural group depicting the venerable Augustine Adorno, founder of the Clérigos Menores, in front of the Virgin of Portacoeli, the main devotion of the original convent. This Baroque facade is one of the most important in Madrid, surviving the destruction that affected many others during the Desamortización and the Civil War. Another interesting element of the church is its connection to historical figures. Among those buried in the church is Alexia González-Barros, proclaimed venerable by the Catholic Church, whose life inspired the 2008 Spanish film “Camino.” Additionally, writer Ramón Gómez de la Serna was baptized in this church in 1888, adding another layer of historical and cultural significance to the building. The church has maintained a central role in the religious and social life of Madrid over the centuries. During the 19th century, the Desamortización of Mendizábal led to the merger of the Clérigos Menores convents in Madrid, and the Convent of Portacoeli became the new seat of the parish of San Martín. This change not only preserved the name and tradition of the parish but also allowed for the conservation of an important architectural complex. Today, the Church of San Martín de Tours continues to be an active place of worship and a living testament to the history of Madrid. Its Baroque architecture, with elegant details and a bright and open atmosphere, makes it a must-visit for anyone wishing to explore the city’s cultural heritage. The church is not only a historic monument but also a place of community and spirituality, where the faithful can gather and visitors can admire the beauty of a bygone era.