Church of San Frediano in Cestello

The Church of San Frediano in Cestello, located in the Oltrarno district of Florence, is a fascinating example of Baroque architecture. Its history dates back to 1450, when a church dedicated to Santa Maria degli Angeli was built for the Carmelite nuns. This religious community was particularly influential, hosting mystical figures such as Santa Maria Maddalena de’ Pazzi, famous for her ecstatic visions. In 1628, the Carmelite nuns moved, exchanging their monastery with the Cistercian monks of Borgo Pinti, and the complex became known as “Cestello Nuovo”. Feeling the need for a renewal, the Cistercian monks commissioned the reconstruction of the church to the architect Gherardo Silvani. Although Silvani died in 1675, his project was continued and completed by Giulio Cerruti and Antonio Maria Ferri. The church was reoriented towards the Arno, and in 1689 the dome, frescoed by Antonio Domenico Gabbiani with scenes of the glory of Mary Magdalene, was completed. The interior decoration, characterized by sixteenth and seventeenth-century stuccoes and paintings, pays homage to Santa Maria Maddalena de’ Pazzi, with works such as “The Ecstasy of the Saint” by Giovanni Camillo Sagrestani. In 1783, the church became a parish and the monastery was suppressed. The monastic buildings were converted into the archdiocesan seminary, which remains active to this day. This seminary is known for its library rich in ancient medieval codices, including the famous Rustici Code. The current church, called San Frediano in Cestello since 1798, owes its name to an old church of San Frediano demolished in the eighteenth century. San Frediano in Cestello also boasts a remarkable collection of artworks. The right wall of the transept houses a canvas by Francesco Curradi, “Madonna in glory and saints”, while another large altarpiece, “Crucifixion with saints and the Martyrdom of St. Lawrence” by Jacopo del Sellaio, comes from the old church. The chapel of San Bernardo houses the “Madonna of the Smile”, a wooden statue from the thirteenth-fourteenth century, surrounded by frescoes by Pier Dandini depicting episodes from the life of St. Bernard of Clairvaux. The church complex also preserves structures of the original convent of Santa Maria degli Angeli, including two cloisters. The first cloister, with the statue of Santa Maria Maddalena de’ Pazzi by Antonio Montauti at its center and a sculpture of St. Bernard of Clairvaux trampling the demon by Giuseppe Piamontini, is an oasis of peace and spirituality. The second cloister, designed by Gherardo and Pierfrancesco Silvani, maintains its Renaissance elegance. Another attraction is the former refectory, now the auditorium of the seminary, which houses the large fresco by Bernardino Poccetti, “Jesus’ Dinner after Fasting in the Desert”. This representation offers a thematic variation from the traditional Last Supper, enriching the artistic heritage of the church. The church, overlooking Piazza di Cestello with its dome and bell tower, is a landmark in the San Frediano neighborhood, an area historically characterized by a lively and popular atmosphere. The severe Baroque architecture of San Frediano in Cestello reflects an era of profound religious and social changes, bearing witness to the history of a devout community and the urban transformations of Florence.