Church of San Giorgio al Palazzo

The church of San Giorgio al Palazzo is an important place of worship located in the heart of Milan, in Piazza San Giorgio. Founded in 750 by the bishop of Milan, San Natale, with the financial support of the Lombard duke Rachis, the church stands on the ruins of the ancient Roman imperial palace commissioned by Emperor Diocletian. This historical location gives the church a special significance, as it stands in an area that was central to the organization of the Roman Empire, when Milan, known then as Mediolanum, was one of the capitals. In the twelfth century, the original building was expanded and transformed into a larger structure. Historical documents from 1158 and 1201 attest to the presence of the Carroccio, the war chariot symbol of Milanese communal freedom, kept in the church during times of peace. This tradition linked the church to the civic and military history of Milan, emphasizing its role not only religious, but also political and social. The sixteenth century marked a period of great changes for San Giorgio al Palazzo. In 1516, the artist Bernardino Luini, one of the leading exponents of the Lombard Renaissance, decorated the Chapel of the Passion with a cycle of frescoes of rare beauty. These frescoes, depicting scenes of the Passion of Christ, are considered masterpieces of Renaissance painting and give the church an invaluable artistic value. In 1623, the architect Francesco Maria Richini initiated a Baroque-style renovation, giving the church a more modern and sumptuous appearance. The new facade, built in 1774 by Francesco Croce, is a remarkable example of Milanese Baroque, with its balanced use of Tuscan columns and Ionic pilasters, as well as the presence of bronze statues depicting Saint George and two angels. The facade is divided into two parts, with a more massive lower section and a lighter and decorated upper section, ending in a triangular pediment. The nineteenth century saw further restoration work, including the construction of the dome and the bell tower in neoclassical style by Luigi Cagnola and Alfonso Parrocchetti. The dome, with its slender profile, rests on a drum adorned with Corinthian columns and arched windows, while the bell tower, with its pyramidal spire, helps define the church’s skyline. The interior of San Giorgio al Palazzo is equally rich and fascinating. The Latin cross plan and the three naves are divided by Tuscan pillars and round arches. The central nave is covered by sail vaults, while the side naves have ribbed vaults. The presbytery, surrounded by a balustrade of polychrome marbles, is an example of Baroque art, with an elaborate and decorated high altar. Particularly noteworthy is the Chapel of the Passion, which houses the frescoes by Bernardino Luini. The central wall, above the altar, is adorned with the “Lamentation over the Dead Christ,” surmounted by the “Crowning with Thorns.” The side walls feature the “Ecce Homo” and the “Flagellation of Jesus,” while the vault of the chapel is decorated with the “Crucifixion of Jesus.” These frescoes not only represent a highlight of Renaissance art, but also provide an important testimony of religious devotion and artistic mastery of the time. An interesting anecdote concerns the plaque in the church that commemorates the Edict of Milan of 313, in which the Emperor Constantine and co-emperor Licinius granted freedom of worship to Christians. This historical event, which marked the end of persecutions against Christians in the Roman Empire, is closely linked to the city’s history and its evolution as a center of faith and culture. The church also houses a representation of the Sacred Military Constantinian Order of Saint George, an ancient chivalric order, whose presence is remembered by a plaque inside the building. This detail further emphasizes the role of San Giorgio al Palazzo not only as a place of worship, but also as a symbol of historical and spiritual continuity.