Church of San Giovanni in Conca

The church of San Giovanni in Conca, located in the heart of Milan in Piazza Missori, is a fascinating example of early Christian and Romanesque architecture, with a rich and complex history that spans over a millennium. Its origins date back to the 5th-6th century, when it was built as an early Christian basilica. Later, in the 12th century, the church underwent a reconstruction in Romanesque style after being destroyed by Frederick Barbarossa in 1162. This reconstruction included a 24-meter bell tower and a three-nave structure with a central dome, marking an important phase in the church’s architectural development. In the 14th century, San Giovanni in Conca became the private chapel of the powerful Visconti family. Bernabò Visconti and his wife Regina della Scala, prominent figures of the dynasty, were buried here, with funerary monuments that are now located in the Sforza Castle. The church served not only as a place of worship, but also as a mausoleum for the family, enriched with Gothic decorations and important works of art. The transfer of the church to the Carmelites in 1531, donated by Francesco II Sforza, marked another significant transformation. The Carmelites built an adjacent monastery and modified the interior of the church in Baroque style. This period of artistic splendor, however, was followed by a long decline. With Austrian domination in the 18th century, the church was deconsecrated and closed by the French, being used as a warehouse. The modern history of San Giovanni in Conca is marked by demolitions and urban transformations. In 1877, the Municipality of Milan decided to create the new Via Carlo Alberto, now Via Mazzini, crossing the area occupied by the church. This led to the reduction of the church, with the reconstructed Gothic facade attached to the remaining apse. In 1881, the Waldensian community purchased the church, making it their place of worship until the complete demolition of the structure in 1949-1952, necessary for the development of Via Albricci and Piazza Missori. However, the crypt and part of the apse were preserved. Today, the crypt of San Giovanni in Conca is the only surviving example of a Romanesque crypt in Milan and can be visited in Piazza Missori. This crypt, characterized by cross vaults and stone pillars, houses archaeological finds that illustrate the long history of the church. The Gothic facade, on the other hand, was transferred and rebuilt on the new Waldensian church in Via Francesco Sforza, maintaining a visible link with the past. San Giovanni in Conca is not just an archaeological site, but a symbol of Milan’s complex history, reflecting the city’s political, social, and religious transformations. The frescoes and works of art recovered from the church during the demolition, including the funerary monuments of Bernabò and Regina Visconti, are now exhibited in the Museum of Ancient Art at the Sforza Castle. This museum also houses other significant artistic fragments from the church, such as two figures of an 11th-century Annunciation and some Romanesque capitals. An interesting anecdote concerns the figure of Saint John the Evangelist, depicted in a niche on the facade, representing the saint immersed in a cauldron of boiling oil. According to tradition, the emperor Domitian subjected the saint to this torture from which he miraculously emerged unharmed. This representation has also been transferred to the Sforza Castle, along with other important artifacts.