Church of Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio in Arco

The Church of Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio ad Arco, located on via dei Tribunali in the heart of Naples, is an extraordinary example of Baroque art and a place steeped in history and devotion. Founded in 1616 at the behest of noble Neapolitan families, such as the Mastrillo and Carafa families, the church was designed by Giovanni Cola di Franco and Giovan Giacomo Di Conforto. Its construction was in response to the need to create a burial place for the poor, who would otherwise have been abandoned without a proper burial. The name of the church comes from its original location, near an ancient Roman arch, and from its dedication to the souls in Purgatory. This devotion is clearly evident in the rich decoration of the facade and interiors, where sculpted skulls and bones constantly remind of the fragility of life and the need to pray for the souls of the deceased. Outside, the church facade features an 18th-century portal, attributed to Cosimo Fanzago, with a bas-relief of the Madonna with the Souls of Purgatory. This decorative motif is repeated in the friezes and side niches, creating a visual effect that immediately captures the attention of passersby. The interior of the upper church, with a single nave, is decorated with a sober elegance rich in symbolism. The presbytery and apse, designed by Dionisio Lazzari, are decorated with colored marbles and stuccoes, culminating in the magnificent altarpiece by Massimo Stanzione depicting the Madonna of the Purging Souls. One of the most distinctive features of the church is the presence of a lower church, located beneath the main one. This space, known as the hypogeum, was conceived to give burial to the so-called “wretched souls,” that is, the poor of the city. The atmosphere here is deliberately austere, with a simple and bare altar reflecting the state of penance and humiliation of the souls in Purgatory. The tiled floor, the work of the Massa brothers, adds a touch of color to this otherwise dark environment. Another fascinating element of the lower church is the presence of numerous skulls, among which stands out the famous skull of Princess Lucia. This skull, placed in a votive niche and adorned with a bridal veil and a crown, is surrounded by silver ex-votos and candles. Legend has it that Lucia was a young noblewoman who died shortly after her marriage, and that her skull has miraculous powers, especially for young brides who invoke her protection. The hypogeum also contains an ossuary, where the bones of the deceased were collected, and several side chapels with loculi intended for the church’s benefactors. The presence of these human remains and the worship practices of the wretched souls testify to the deep devotion of the Neapolitans for their dead and their ongoing concern for the fate of the souls in Purgatory.