House of the Big Men

The House of the Omenoni, located on via degli Omenoni in Milan, is a architectural gem from the 16th century, designed and built by the sculptor Leone Leoni between 1562 and 1566. Its unique facade, characterized by eight imposing telamons – male sculpted figures that appear to support the building – is an extraordinary example of how Renaissance art could merge with domestic architecture. Leone Leoni, a sculptor and court medallist for Charles V and Philip II of Spain, conceived this palace not only as a private residence, but also as a place to house his art collection. The house was adorned with works by masters such as Titian, Correggio, and Parmigianino, as well as casts of ancient statues and drawings by Leonardo da Vinci, including the famous Atlantic Codex, now housed at the Ambrosian Library. Leoni, who had known and appreciated the art of Michelangelo, evidently drew inspiration from the latter in his creations, as can be seen in the dramatic and expressive power of his telamons. The facade of the House of the Omenoni is dominated by eight figures of “barbarian prisoners,” sculpted by Antonio Abondio, representing the races defeated by the Roman Empire. These sculptures are among the first of their kind to be used in a residential context, giving the building a distinctive monumentality and character. In the upper frieze, a bas-relief depicting a satyr in the jaws of two lions can be seen, a clear allegorical reference to Leoni himself (whose surname means “lions” in Italian). Over the centuries, the House of the Omenoni has undergone numerous modifications and restorations. In the 19th century, the interior was renovated and, in 1929, the building became the headquarters of the Clubino, an exclusive club for gentlemen. During the 1950s and 1960s, the house hosted the Teatro del Convegno, directed by Enzo Ferrieri, where actors such as Renzo Ricci and Eva Magni performed. These changes reflect the social and cultural evolution of Milan, highlighting how the building has been a reference point for the intellectual and social life of the city. The House of the Omenoni is not only an example of Renaissance architecture and sculpture, but also a symbol of the eventful life of Leone Leoni. Born in Menaggio in 1509, Leoni led an adventurous life, working for some of the most powerful rulers of the time and also experiencing periods of imprisonment. After injuring a jeweler in Rome, he was forced to flee and settled in Milan, where he became the official sculptor of the Mint. His house, with its imposing facade and rich interior decorations, reflects his desire to assert his social and artistic status.