Monte Testaccio (Mount of Shards)

Monte Testaccio, located in the district of the same name in Rome, is a unique artificial hill, entirely composed of Roman amphora sherds. This archaeological monument, approximately 36 meters high, is the result of centuries of commercial and industrial activity in ancient Rome, and is also known as the “Mount of Sherds”. The name “Testaccio” comes from the Latin “testae”, which means “sherds” or “terracotta fragments”. The hill is made up of over 53 million amphorae, mainly used for transporting oil. Once emptied, these amphorae were crushed and neatly stacked, forming successive layers that gave rise to the hill. This disposal process began in the Augustan period and continued until the mid-3rd century AD. The orderly arrangement of the sherds and the presence of lime to reduce odors testify to the careful and methodical management of the landfill. The hill represents a valuable source of information for archaeologists. The inscriptions on the sherds, known as “tituli picti”, indicate the contents of the amphorae, the name of the producer, and other useful information for tracing the commercial routes of the time. Most of the amphorae came from the coasts of Baetica (modern-day Andalusia) and Byzacena (in present-day Tunisia), confirming the importance of Mediterranean trade for Rome. During the Middle Ages, Monte Testaccio continued to play a significant role in the life of the city. Its slopes, thanks to the insulating nature of clay, were excavated to create cellars and storerooms. These cool spaces, maintained at around 10°C, became ideal for storing wine and food. Some of these premises transformed into taverns and later into restaurants and nightclubs, contributing to the lively gastronomic scene of the Testaccio district. The hill also became a center of social and cultural activities. During the Middle Ages, carnival celebrations with bloody games like “tauromachy” and “ruzzica de li porci” were held there, where live pigs were pushed down the hill to be caught by participants. In the 15th century, Monte Testaccio became the endpoint for the Good Friday Via Crucis, symbolizing Golgotha. Even today, a cross planted on the summit testifies to this tradition. In modern times, Monte Testaccio acquired a strategic function. During the siege of Rome in 1849, an artillery battery was installed on the summit to target the French troops camped near the Basilica of St. Paul outside the walls. During World War II, an anti-aircraft battery was positioned on the hill, the remains of which are still visible. The first systematic archaeological research began in the 19th century, thanks to the German archaeologist Heinrich Dressel. He conducted an important work of cataloging and classifying the amphorae, which allowed for the reconstruction of the age and origin of the sherds. Dressel’s studies were fundamental in understanding the extent of Roman trade and the organization of the landfill.