Parish Church of Santa Maria del Carmelo (Ai Carmini)

The Parish Church of Sant’Alvise, dedicated to Saint Louis of Toulouse and also known as Sant’Alvise, is located in the Cannaregio district of Venice. Built in 1383 on the initiative of Antonia Venier, a Venetian noblewoman who retired to a convent after having a vision of the saint, the church is a fascinating example of Venetian Gothic architecture with significant Baroque renovations. The church facade is simple and austere, in line with the Gothic style of the time. Built in bricks, it is marked by six protruding pillars connected by pointed arches. The main portal, made of Istrian stone, is surmounted by a statue of Sant’Alvise, attributed to Bartolomeo Bon and added in the 1400s. The original Gothic bell tower from the 14th century, with a pine cone spire and pinnacles at the corners, completes the severe yet charming exterior appearance of the church. The interior of the church, with a basilica plan and a single nave, was significantly transformed in the 17th century. One of the most distinctive elements is the “Barco,” a suspended choir supported by slender columns and decorated with wrought iron grilles. This architectural detail was used by the Augustinian nuns to attend religious services without being seen, adding a unique and suggestive touch to the church interior. The church of Sant’Alvise is renowned for its important works of art. Among the most prestigious are three paintings by Giambattista Tiepolo, created between 1737 and 1740: “The Ascent to Calvary,” located in the presbytery, “The Crowning with Thorns,” and “The Flagellation,” both in the right nave. These paintings are considered masterpieces of Venetian Baroque art and capture attention for their emotional intensity and Tiepolo’s technical skill. In addition to Tiepolo’s paintings, the church houses other significant works, including two canvases by Pietro della Vecchia: “The Theft of the Body of Saint Mark” and “The Saracens Refuse to Inspect the Basket with the Body of Saint Mark.” These works were originally created as preparatory cartoons for the mosaic decorations of St. Mark’s Basilica. Another masterpiece present is the Polyptych of Saint Barbara by Bartolomeo Vivarini, a work that reflects the transition between Gothic and Renaissance styles, with its elaborate composition and meticulous details. On the left of the entrance are 15th-century tempera panels by Lazzaro Bastiani, depicting stories from the Old Testament, and a “Portrait of a Priest” by Jacobello del Fiore dated 1420. These masterpieces add another layer of depth and richness to the already extraordinary artistic collection of the church. The church has a rich history of anecdotes and legends. For example, it is said that the name “Sant’Alvise” derives from the fact that the church was dedicated to Saint Louis of Toulouse, known in Venetian as Sant’Alvise. Furthermore, during the plague of 1630, the church was one of the most frequented places of prayer by the Venetians, who sought the saint’s intercession for protection from the disease.