Portuguese Synagogue

The Portuguese Synagogue of Amsterdam, also known as Esnoga, is a living testament to the rich Jewish history in the city. Founded at the end of the 17th century, it represents a symbol of resilience and prosperity of the Sephardic Jewish community, which found refuge in the Netherlands after persecutions in Spain and Portugal. Located in the heart of Amsterdam’s Jewish cultural quarter, the synagogue is still an active place of worship and a popular tourist attraction. The idea to build the synagogue arose in 1665, when the Sephardic community decided to erect a new building that would represent their faith and success. Architects Elias Bouman and Daniel Stalpaert were commissioned to design the synagogue, drawing inspiration from the models of Solomon’s Temple in Jerusalem. Construction began in 1671 and was completed in 1675, despite the difficulties encountered during the Year of Disaster in 1672, when war temporarily interrupted the work. The Esnoga was inaugurated on August 2, 1675, with great ceremony. Above the main entrance, a Hebrew inscription from Psalm 5:8 reads: “In the abundance of Your loving kindness, I will enter Your house,” with the year 1672 marked, recalling the year the synagogue was supposed to be completed. This detail represents a symbol of hope and perseverance of the Jewish community in difficult times. The architecture of the synagogue is imposing and reflects the confidence and wealth of the Sephardic community of Amsterdam. At the time of its construction, it was the largest synagogue in the world and one of the largest buildings in Amsterdam. The main structure is surrounded by various buildings that house offices, archives, the rabbinate, a mortuary, and the famous Ets Haim library, which preserves precious collections of Sephardic manuscripts. The interior of the synagogue is equally impressive. The Iberian-Sephardic longitudinal structure type sees the Holy Ark located in the southeast corner, facing Jerusalem, and the Tebah, the platform from which the service is conducted, located on the opposite side. The original wooden benches, dating back to the synagogue’s founding, add an authentic touch to the environment. The women’s gallery, supported by twelve stone columns representing the twelve tribes of Israel, offers a place from which women can attend the services. A particularly fascinating aspect of the Portuguese Synagogue is its lighting system. The interior is illuminated by a thousand candles distributed on two enormous brass chandeliers, while natural light filters through the 72 windows, creating a suggestive and spiritual atmosphere. This lighting system, devoid of electricity, is still used today, giving the place an ancient charm and a unique atmosphere during religious services and special events, such as candlelight concerts. During World War II, the synagogue and the Jewish community of Amsterdam were severely affected by the Nazi occupation. Many members of the community were deported and never returned. However, the synagogue miraculously survived the bombings and devastations of the war. After the war, the Jewish community of Amsterdam began the long process of reconstruction, and the Esnoga once again became a vital center of religious and cultural life.