Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin

The Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, located in the Ripa district of Rome, is one of the most fascinating examples of medieval architecture in the city. Built in the 6th century on the ruins of the Temple of Hercules Victor in the Forum Boarium, it was expanded and decorated under Pope Adrian I between 772 and 795, during which time it took on the name “Cosmedin”, derived from the Greek term “kosmidion”, meaning ornament. The facade of the church, with its characteristic portico with seven arches and the 12th-century Romanesque bell tower, is one of the most recognizable elements of the building. The bell tower, in particular, is one of the most beautiful in Rome, adding a touch of grandeur to the structure. Under the portico is the famous Mouth of Truth, an ancient marble mask depicting a faun, known for the legend that anyone who lied with their hand in its mouth would risk losing it. The interior of the church is equally fascinating. The central nave is flanked by columns of marble and granite from different origins, dividing the building into three aisles. The 12th-century Cosmatesque floor and the schola cantorum are extraordinary examples of medieval decorative art. The schola cantorum, in particular, is adorned with intricate marble inlays, creating geometric and floral motifs of great beauty. Among the most precious elements inside the church is the Gothic ciborium made by Deodato di Cosma in 1249. This canopy above the high altar is an extraordinary example of Gothic art, with its delicate decorations and use of white marble. The high altar itself was consecrated in 1123 by Pope Callixtus II, as part of the church’s renovation and embellishment works. Another treasure housed in the church is the skull of Saint Valentine, the patron saint of lovers, displayed in a glass case. This reliquary attracts numerous visitors, especially on Saint Valentine’s Day, when the church becomes a place of pilgrimage for couples and lovers. The crypt, built under the papacy of Adrian I, is another place of great interest. This small underground basilica is divided into three aisles by six columns without bases, which fit directly into the floor. At the base of the crypt’s altar is an ancient Roman milestone, used as an altar to house the relics of Saint Cyrilla. The walls of the crypt are decorated with frescoes and the sixteen niches testify to the importance of the place as a seat of numerous relics. The history of the church is marked by numerous important events. During the sack of Rome in 1084 by the Norman troops of Robert Guiscard, the church suffered serious damage, but was later restored by Pope Gelasius II in 1118. Between 1295 and 1304, Cardinal Francesco Caetani undertook further restoration works, giving the facade its current “peeled” form and adding a rose window in the center. In 1435, Pope Eugene IV entrusted the church to the Benedictine monks of the Abbey of San Paolo fuori le Mura, who made further modifications and improvements. In the 16th century, under Pope Leo X, the church’s cardinal title was restored and the church elevated to a collegiate church.