The Stones of Matera

The Sassi of Matera are one of the most extraordinary and ancient urban settlements in the world, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993. Located in the city of Matera, in Basilicata, the Sassi are a complex of dwellings carved into the limestone rock, which testify to a residential continuity dating back to the Paleolithic era. The term “Sassi” refers to the two main rock neighborhoods of the city: the Sasso Caveoso and the Sasso Barisano. These neighborhoods are characterized by a unique urban structure, with houses, churches, and caves that develop along the steep walls of the Gravina di Matera. The conformation of the Sassi is the result of millennia of human adaptation to the natural environment, where the limestone rock has been progressively excavated and shaped to create living spaces.The Sasso Caveoso, located to the south, is known for its oldest dwellings and rock churches, which preserve frescoes from the medieval period. This neighborhood maintains a more archaic appearance, with houses that almost seem to emerge directly from the rock. The Sasso Barisano, to the north, presents a more articulated and complex structure, with overlapping dwellings that create an intricate labyrinth of alleys and staircases. Both neighborhoods offer a glimpse into the daily life and religious devotion of the communities that have inhabited them over the centuries.The history of the Sassi of Matera is fascinating and complex. Human settlements in this area date back to the Paleolithic era, when the first hunter-gatherer communities found refuge in natural caves. Over the centuries, these caves were progressively expanded and transformed into permanent dwellings. During the Middle Ages, the Sassi experienced a period of great development, thanks to the arrival of Benedictine and Byzantine monks who founded numerous rock churches and monasteries.The rock churches of Matera are one of the most fascinating aspects of the Sassi. Among the most famous are the Church of Santa Lucia alle Malve, the Church of Santa Maria de Idris, and the Church of San Pietro Barisano. These places of worship, carved into the rock and decorated with extraordinarily beautiful frescoes, represent a unique testimony to the spirituality and religious art of the Middle Ages. The frescoes, depicting biblical scenes, saints, and angelic figures, were created using a mixed technique of fresco and tempera, giving them a surprising chromatic liveliness and expressive delicacy.Over the centuries, the Sassi have undergone various vicissitudes. During the Renaissance and Baroque periods, Matera experienced a period of prosperity, thanks to its strategic location and the fertile surrounding plain. However, starting from the 19th century, the Sassi entered a period of decline and degradation, due to difficult hygienic and sanitary conditions. The rock dwellings, lacking essential services, became synonymous with poverty and backwardness. In 1952, the Italian government decided to relocate the population of the Sassi to new neighborhoods built from scratch, initiating a massive evacuation and redevelopment plan.The rebirth of the Sassi began in the 1980s, thanks to a growing interest in their historical and cultural value. Restoration and recovery works, funded by public and private funds, have allowed the hidden beauty of the Sassi to be brought to light and transformed into an internationally relevant tourist and cultural center. Today, the Sassi host museums, hotels, restaurants, and art galleries, offering visitors a unique experience of immersion in the history and culture of Matera.An interesting anecdote concerns Carlo Levi’s visit to Matera in the 1940s. In his book “Christ Stopped at Eboli,” Levi describes the poverty and difficult living conditions in the Sassi, helping to raise awareness among the public and authorities about the city’s social issues. His testimony played an important role in promoting redevelopment and recovery interventions that led to the rebirth of the Sassi.