Church of Santa Maria in Trastevere

The Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere is one of the oldest and most significant places of worship in Rome, located in the heart of the Trastevere district. According to tradition, its history dates back to Pope Callixtus I (217-222) who founded the first church on the site where, it is said, oil gushed from the ground. The current basilica was built between 1138 and 1143 by the will of Pope Innocent II, who used materials taken from the Baths of Caracalla. The facade, completed in 1702 by Carlo Fontana, features a 13th-century mosaic depicting Mary enthroned with the Child, flanked by ten women with lamps, symbolizing the wise virgins of the Gospel parable. The facade of the basilica, preceded by a portico designed by Carlo Fontana, is a perfect example of Baroque architecture. The portico, with Ionic and Corinthian columns, creates a monumental entrance that invites the faithful and visitors to discover the richness of the interiors. The upper part of the facade is decorated with a 13th-century mosaic depicting Mary enthroned nursing the Child, surrounded by ten women with lamps, symbolizing the wise virgins of the Gospel parable. This mosaic is one of the few remaining examples of medieval external decoration in Rome.Upon entering the basilica, one is welcomed by a majestic and solemn atmosphere, with a central nave flanked by two rows of Ionic and Corinthian columns supporting an architrave. The columns, coming from the Baths of Caracalla, give the interior a classical and imposing appearance. The wooden ceiling, designed by Domenichino, is decorated with the Assumption of Mary in the center, surrounded by angels and saints. This ceiling is a masterpiece of Roman Baroque, with its richness of details and vibrant colors.The side chapels of the basilica house valuable works of art. In the first chapel of the right nave is “Santa Francesca Romana” by Giacomo Zoboli, a work characterized by deep spirituality and skillful use of light. The second chapel is decorated with the “Nativity” by Étienne Parrocel, a painting that captures the tenderness and sacredness of the moment of Jesus’ birth. The fourth chapel, dedicated to Saint Frederick of Utrecht, was decorated in 1651 by Giacinto Brandi, with an altarpiece depicting the martyrdom of the saint. This altarpiece, now preserved in the parish office to protect it from humidity, is a significant example of Roman Baroque painting.The left transept houses the “Martyrdom of Saints Philip and James” by Jacopo Palma the Younger, a work that stands out for the dramatic scene and richness of details. In the transept are also the funerary monuments of the cardinals Pietro Stefaneschi and Philippe d’Alençon, which testify to the historical and religious importance of the basilica.One of the most precious treasures of the basilica is the icon of the Madonna della Clemenza, also known as Madonna Theotokos. This specimen dates back perhaps to the 6th century, but some historians date it to the 8th century. The icon, with its rigid frontality and vibrant colors, is an extraordinary example of Byzantine art. The Madonna della Clemenza is a symbol of Marian devotion and attracts numerous faithful and visitors.The true masterpiece of the basilica is the mosaic of the apse, depicting the Virgin and Christ seated on the same throne. This mosaic, dating back to the 12th century, is adorned at the bottom with Stories of the Virgin, created by Pietro Cavallini in 1291. The iconography of the apse is probably allusive to the great procession that took place in Rome in the Middle Ages on the night of the Assumption. On this occasion, the acheropite icon of the Savior from the Lateran was solemnly brought to Santa Maria Maggiore, in the presence of the famous icon of the Salus populi romani. Ernst Kitzinger’s thesis, which sees a reference to this procession in the iconography of the mosaic, is supported by stylistic similarities and the presence of scrolls with passages from the Song of Songs.In the transept of the basilica, in large twin cantorias beautifully carved and gilded, there are two pipe organs from different eras. The first, built by Filippo Testa in 1702, has a single keyboard and a leg pedalboard, while the second, made by the French firm Mutin Cavaillé-Coll in 1911, has two manuals and a straight pedalboard. Despite their differences, these instruments further enrich the musical and liturgical experience of the basilica.