Circus of Nero

Nero’s Circus, also known as the Vatican Circus, is one of the most fascinating and historically rich ancient structures in Rome, despite only a few visible remains remaining today. Located in the area where the Basilica of St. Peter’s now stands, the circus was built by Emperor Caligula around 40 AD and later expanded by Nero. This circus, although less famous than the Circus Maximus, has a unique historical and symbolic importance, linked both to chariot races and to tragic and dramatic events in Christian history. The circus was originally intended for chariot races and other public spectacles, a popular passion among the Romans. The structure was typical of Roman circuses, with a long central arena and a “spina” decorated with obelisks and statues. One of the obelisks, which is now located in the center of St. Peter’s Square, was brought to Rome by Caligula from Egypt and initially erected in the “spina” of the circus. This obelisk is one of the few original elements that we can still admire today, a silent witness of past eras. Nero’s Circus is also sadly known for being the site of the persecution of Christians during Nero’s reign, following the great fire of Rome in 64 AD. According to historical sources, Nero blamed the Christians for the disaster and many were martyred in the circus. Christian tradition holds that among these martyrs was also St. Peter, one of Jesus’ apostles and considered the first Pope. It is believed that St. Peter was crucified upside down right in this place, an event that gives the circus a sacred importance for the Catholic Church. Architecturally, the circus was imposing. Its dimensions were considerable, with an arena about 600 meters long and 80 meters wide. The stands could accommodate thousands of spectators, who watched the chariot races and other events with great enthusiasm. The central “spina” was adorned not only with the obelisk, but also with statues and fountains, creating an impressive visual spectacle. Over the centuries, the circus fell into disuse and its structures were gradually dismantled or incorporated into new constructions. During the Middle Ages, the area was used for agricultural purposes and later for religious buildings. It was only during the Renaissance, with the construction of St. Peter’s Basilica, that the historical and symbolic importance of the site was rediscovered and valued. Archaeological excavations conducted in the 19th and 20th centuries have brought to light significant remains of the circus, including fragments of the stands and the “spina”. These excavations have helped to better understand the structure and function of the circus, providing valuable information about the life and habits of the Romans. Today, the remains of the circus are partially visible in the underground of St. Peter’s Basilica, where it is possible to see some of the ancient structures and imagine the grandeur of the original complex. An interesting anecdote concerns the fate of the circus obelisk. When it was decided to erect the new St. Peter’s Basilica, the obelisk was moved to the center of the square in front. The operation, desired by Pope Sixtus V and carried out by the architect Domenico Fontana in 1586, was an extraordinary engineering feat for the time. The obelisk, about 25 meters high and weighing over 300 tons, was lifted and transported using machines and ingenuity, an event that attracted the attention of all of Rome.